“This is a man’s world.”

Coming from a Women’s Studies background, possessing an unwavering passion for equality across all realms for men and women I believed my time spent in Zambia would add much to this passion by bringing forth new experiences and challenges. When I first arrived in Zambia, I was a bit shocked by the way in which I felt completely comfortable with how I viewed gender roles and relations. Due to the fact that Zambia is a very peaceful country; the people being no different, I was under the impression that people seemed rather content with the roles they play in their lives as men and women. I even went as far in a previous blog regarding polygamist marriages to say that the women appear happy and the multiple wives act as if they are friends. While I have no doubt this may be partially true and of course not ever situation is the same, I have recently had to remind myself of the age old saying, ‘don’t judge a book by its cover.’ What appears one way the first time you see it, may not in fact be what the reality is. This has certainly been the case in regards to gender relations.

It had been a long time since I felt truly, ‘fired up’ about an injustice imposed on women. I usually have these what I call, ‘spirts’ of fiery passion regarding some dramatic feeling and thought I have regarding the superior position I so often find men to be placed in by mere birth right.

After talking with several women who are living in polygamist marriages, the consensus in the words of the wives is, “it’s not good.” Someone from the ‘developed world’ may automatically think, “well of course it’s not, there would be TONS of jealously.” While I am sure there is jealously, it appears that perhaps a larger concern is the distribution of wealth. If one man has three wives and 19 children in total (I must admit, this is my host father), how will he decide which child is sent to secondary school? How will he manage to provide enough food for the entire family let alone soap for the family to bathe with?  In Zambian culture, men are the head of the household controlling the finances and resources in the family. Although women are usually helping in the income generating work in the fields, they often never see the money. In fact, when the maize is finally cultivated many wives may be given zero funds, questioning where in fact the money even went. Sometimes women create their own income generating activity (for example selling animals, making goods, etc.) but usually they are at the mercy of their husband and what he chooses to do for the family.

The persistent cultural belief of a patriarchal society poses challenges for health related work as well as daily life for individuals in Kasiya area (my specific area). Gender roles are clearly defined and women and girls are expected to not only help in the fields, but to assume responsibilities of all the housework and caring for children. Many men have more free time often spending it socializing. In fact, there are a handful of men who spend their free time drinking the local maize beer resulting in them leaving the wives and children in the home. Child labor is common, with boys helping in construction and much manual labor. Girls often assist with much of the housework including fetching water, sweeping, cooking meals for the family, and childcare for the young children. At times, children are forced to miss school in order to help with the family chores or field work, jeopardizing their opportunity for education. In many families men are fed first, then women and lastly children leading to the youngest receiving less or perhaps the worst portion of the food. In addition, almost all people in the area cultivate maize/corn but very few grow any other crops or vegetables causing a lack of variety and balanced meals for the family. This increases the likelihood of malnutrition and anemia within my community.

From my perspective women are oppressed in many ways in Tonga culture. I believe the over-arching theme is a lack of personal autonomy and lack of power. Some examples can be seen in polygamist marriages, frequent domestic abuse, men being given stools to sit on while women usually sit on the ground, lack of power in decision making among women, and the distribution of familial house work. The list could go on and on (perhaps I will write a full on list someday). One striking observation has been the prevalence of pregnancies among girls in my community. It is not uncommon to find many girls dropping out of school because they have been impregnated by a much older man or they are told they must stay at home in order to take care of the daily chores.

Does every woman feel as though they are oppressed though? No, I do not think so. It is possible that some of the relationships between men and women are relatively ‘equal.’ I would like to suggest though that I think that for the most part, when it comes to village life, there is a vast inequality that persists. I would also like to suggest that men simply have more power here. Fortunately, I have met some men who can understand this and are perhaps trying to even the ‘playing field.’ On the other side, those who have power in this world are usually not extremely willing to give this up.

Judging from my initial perhaps incorrect impression of gender relations in Zambia, I am not naive to the fact that I have still only been here for less than six months so I have much more learning to do. I am also aware that I am writing from my own bias. I can only write what I have experienced and what I am thinking based on my own filter of information.  I am also aware that I posses an insane amount of privilege just from being a white American. In fact, I am reminded of this privilege daily also making me question even more things. Ultimately though, I know that each day I will continue to learn more, adding more substance to these discussions and thoughts.  

While it can be discouraging thinking about the stark gender inequality that persists in Zambian villages, there are also many reasons to stay positive and ways in which things can change for the better. I truly think that one of the greatest ways to influence the status quo and the way in which many people view gender dynamics is through educating the youth population. Peace Corps has an option for us to run a club for both boys and girls on gender equality. Lessons include discussions around masculinity/femininity, roles within the family, personal role models, goals and aspirations, HIV/AIDS prevention and personal well-being. I believe that through programs such as these and open discussions maybe (just maybe!) there can be a change for the better. Only time will tell. 

I have included some pictures of some of the girls i am surrounded by who inspire me daily!

 “This is a man’s world but it would be nothing without a woman or a girl.”

“We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.” Winsten Churchill

I have been at my official site now for over seven weeks. While there have been moments that have felt like centuries long, overall time is moving quickly. I am currently in a period known to Peace Corps volunteers as ‘community entry.’ Community entry is the first three months after initially being posted to a volunteer’s specific sight post pre-service training. Community entry is a time for volunteers to get to know their community and surroundings, meet many people, learn and speak the local language, design a community map, assess community health needs/issues, eat with neighbors and friends, and most of all, a time for adjustment into the new life.

Due to the nature and purpose of ‘community entry’ we are encouraged to remain in our villages thus making it difficult to access a place to update my blog. Because it has been centuries since I have last posted a blog I am just going to give a semi-quick overview of what I have been up to.

Each day I strap my jerry cans onto the rack of my bike and cycle 500 meters to my nearest water source (they call it a borehole or hand pump). Before drinking I place a few drops of chlorine and then put it through my water filter. I cook using either a brazier with charcoal or my methylated spirit stove. I enjoy cooking for myself but I frequently eat with my host family and am often invited and served food by many of my friends around the area. If you are caught at someone’s home around 12:30 it is almost a guarantee they will serve you lunch. It almost seems impolite to refuse.

Between the stark differences in cultural, language, work, daily conversations and contemplating my trillion thoughts per second, I often feel I am ready to explode with every single emotion known to humankind by the end of each day. For those that know me I am sure this comes as no surprise. 

Here is a snapshot into my rambled thoughts and experiences. Plus, I think bullet points are helpful and easy to comprehend. ;)

            1) I simply cannot emphasize enough the immense contrast between the way many in the developing country interact with one another and the way in which people here in Zambia interact with one another. Zambian culture is extremely collectivistic, highly valuing close interpersonal relationship, friendships and of course familial relations. Most families have about 6 children. Having a large family symbolizes wealth and happiness. If there are not many people will often feel pity for that person (just to specify: I am speaking of life in the rural village setting. Those who come from town or various cities have fewer children and recognize the value in concentrating on only a few children).

      2)  If someone has not seen me (and I think this perhaps goes for anyone in the village) for more than one day they say to me, “Mutinta, where have you been? Why haven’t I seen you? When are you going to come visit me?” I can only imagine what the will say if I ever decide to leave for vacation.

 3) Upon arrival, the community threw me a welcome celebration. All village headmen in my catchment area within the area I will be serving in were present along with health staff and other members of the neighborhood health committee. It was a bit intimidating having over 30 Zambian village headmen stare at me as I tried to speak Tonga to them, but it was a great experience. Throughout the meeting there was designated time carved out for the people present to dance. Someone would speak about something and then all of a sudden the music would turn on and everyone would begin dancing. At the end we enjoyed a local meal of nsima, cabbage and chicken.

            4) I encountered my first mouse in my hut several days ago. It turns out it had been living under my bed for quite some time. I normally regard myself as a fairly tough woman when it comes to bugs and wildlife but for some reason, knowing it is in my actual home is a very unsettling, creepy and disturbing feeling. When I first saw it, I screamed bloody murder and called my younger sister (she is seven years old) to help me. Eventually the mouse ran into my pillow case and my host sister collected it, brought it to the family and all gathered to watch as she dropped the mouse out of the bag and the family proceeded to hit until dead. Needless to say, at least for now I will be without a mouse sleeping

beneath me. Let’s hope it stays this way.

             5) Time is fluid here. Time is an extremely different concept here compared to where I come from. In America when we say there is a meeting at 2pm people arrive around 1:45pm to make sure they are properly on time. When there is a meeting here at 2pm people arrive around 4pm or simply do not show up at all. This is perhaps the most frustrating aspect of being here. It has taught be once again about PATIENCE and simply going with the flow to the best of my ability. This is easier some days more than others. 

Sometimes pictures speak louder than words....enjoy!

The first day in my village with part of my family

Playing with some of the kids on my compound

One of the Catholic Mass Services I attended. Almost everyone in my area attends church. It is a social event and a time for people to dance and sing.

Some of my kiddo friends after church

Chileshe: The Environmental Health Technician at the Health Clinic. We have been traveling to many villages in order to meet the people and find out some of their health concerns/troubles

Biking is my main form of transportation and I LOVE it

One of the many villages meetings

Trying to blend in...

One of the school signs. All government schools has signs for AIDS awareness

This man wanted a picture together..

Chiwayu has been the main person to show me around and introduce me to the community. I am thankful for both of these great guys who have become my good friends! 

Chileshe and Chiwayu. The three musketeers!

Say cheeeeese. Oh cheese how I miss you.....

My newest love here in Zambia. Her name is Choolwe. which means Lucky in Tonga.

My current home. They are building an extension making my house twice as big. Yay!

My host sisters happily asked to wash my bike. I can't complain.

Homemade tacos

Doing some laundry village style. One bucket of soapy water and the other with clean water to rinse.

A tool to grind maize into tiny pieces to make local drink called "cibwantu"

Attempting to grind some maize. These women are strong!

Homemade peanut butter

My friend Sithabile and I

I had the opportunity to celebrate Zambia's 50yrs of Independence. It was a day of traditional dance, performances, soccer and local food.

Additional thoughts...

We must never forget about all the beauty that lies in this world. For even in times of great trials, there is always something to lift the heart. Here in Zambia, it is looking up into a nearby tree just to notice beautifully colored birds breaking from the sun, or the way the children intricately construct a toy from the pieces of rubbish in the yard. It is watching the elderly women laugh, dance and embrace one another in friendship. It is giving thanks for the magnificent sun that swelters over the people during the day but then creates a powerful melody of color just before becoming a dark sky. There are moments that are tough here. There are moments I am frustrated, I feel defeat and moments that I even want to give up. In these moments I think of these small beautiful things and they are enough to make me smile. The mind is an incredible space. I am finding we truly have a great amount of control over our attitudes and thus the way we react to the circumstances and experiences in our everyday life. Once again I am reminded of the notion that happiness is not a place but rather a state of mind. And I choose to be happy.

Adaptation

The past few weeks have been an absolute whirlwind of events, emotions and transitions. We have finally completed the 11 weeks of grueling training in language, technical and cross-cultural skills. While I feel as though I have been prepared to a certain extent, nothing can truly prepare you for the moment when you are posted to the community you will be living in for the next two years. Here are a few pictures of some of the events we have had the past few days. 

Our last week of training we had a "cultural day" in which we invited all of the host families, cooked for them, sang local songs, danced and said our farewells. My host father wanted a picture of me with the cows before I left. ;) 

Trainees preparing for the meal

My next door neighbor/biking buddy/one of my besties during training. She will be in Northwest Province speaking a language called Lunda. Tonga's and Lunda's are tribal cousins, which basically means we can joke with one another and share humor.

Cultural day with many head Peace Corps staff

My host Ba taata and Ba mamma. My host father wrote me a farewell letter in English saying some of the sweetest things I have ever read. This was our final "farewell." Needless to say, I cried. Seeing as it is not extremely socially acceptable in Zambia, I hid my face from my family ;)

Before "swearing in" as official volunteers! These two ladies were in my Tonga language class. All volunteer outfits were made from local material called Citenge.

Some of the CHIPer's (aka Health Volunteers on Swear-in day).

It's official...I'm a Peace Corps Volunteer!

After swear-in ceremony. Chelsea (on left) is going to Eastern Province, Jenna to Northwest, and me to Southern. his just gives me more reason to travel!

I am looking forward to posting more pictures from my actual village which I will be going to today!

Farewell Mwanya Family

Before I head to my specific village in Southern province, I feel I must take a moment to honor and recognize the family I have been staying with the past 11 weeks. Their individual stories and life continue to astound me daily.

Bataata/father: Greenwell Mwanya

Greenwell Mwanya grew up in Southern Province until he was about 18 years old. He only received education through grade seven. He failed the test to make it to grade 8 and his family did not have the funds to pay for his enrollment. Mwanya has spent the majority of his life in Chongwe as a police officer. He is almost 60 years old and now mainly supports the family through subsistence farming; growing and selling maize, growing onions, tomatoes, cabbage, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, melon and collects honey during certain times of the year. Although he grows many vegetables, he often struggles financially and sometimes his family does not eat a well-balanced dinner with protein, vitamins and carbs. This being said, he prides himself on the many animals he has. He has many cows, dozens of chickens, one pig, about five dogs and a cat. Cows are a large sign of prosperity and wealth. He plans to give his sons a cow when they leave the home if they have been respectful and are deserving of such a gift. Mwanya has a total of 10 children. In his first marriage he had five children. With his current wife (my host mother) he has had five children and one is one the way. It is often difficult to understand where all of the children actually live. Most of the children from his first wife are older and have their own compounds farther away. Several children stay with my host mother’s sister and visit on the weekend. There are a total of five children who live full time on the compound with my host father and mother; three boys and two girls. Currently the ones that are old enough attend school full time. When I have asked Mwanya whether he wants his children to continue pursuing an education he states that he has no doubt in his mind that he wants to find the funds for his children to attend school through secondary school. He recognizes the value of education. Mwanya is heavily involved with a local church and attends meetings on Saturdays as well as service on Sundays. He often speaks of God during everyday conversations, expressing his devotion and beliefs. This is very common in Zambia. He speaks three languages; Tonga, Nyanja, and broken English. Mwanya is an incredibly jolly, cheerful man who greets those he sees with a giant smile and upbeat voice. He is well respected in the community and seen as a man that can be trusted. He will be missed.

Greenwell Mwanya/Bataata lookin' good on his way to Lusaka

Bamaama/mother: Sarah Mwanya

I have grown to truly appreciate Sarah Mwanya. Bamaama is one of the most hard-working women I have ever met. She provides for many children, cooking three meals and multiple snacks each day, hauling water back and forth over 500m, cleaning dishes, washing clothes, waking early each morning to sweep and prepare, and all with a smile on her face and an incredible attitude. Bamaama has lived in Chongwe her entire life. Mwanya is the only husband she has had and she currently has five children and is pregnant with another. Although she is clearly pregnant, I have not heard her speak of the pregnancy once. I think it is rather taboo to discuss pregnancy in great length here. Bamaama received education only through grade 7. Although she has not received much ‘formal’ education, she is very intelligent. She is very in tune with everything that is happening in the community and seems to state her mind when she feels a need. She speaks Nyanja and a little bit of Tonga and English. When we speak I know that she understands what I am saying based on the brief responses and feedback she gives me. She is very patient and has taught me the few Tonga words she knows. When we first met I said to her, “we will learn together.” Since the beginning, this is exactly what we have done. Her English and my Tonga has improved immensely. She truly has become another mother of mine.

Each night my Ba Taata teaches me Tonga songs. We typically belt them out as a family while the children dance along excitedly. My host father calls me his daughter. After returning from a long trip away he explained to me how he thinks of me as a part of the family. He described this saying, “My daughter, we have missed you. A family is like a hand, with each finger representing a member of the family. When one is missing, we are not complete. We were missing you.” These are the moments when I know I will truly miss them….

Ba Maama and I washing (BTW not an easy task)

Naomie 4 yrs old and Matius 6 yrs old. Bundles of joy!

Peace Corps Training Updates

The weather is changing. “Winter”/cold season is ending and the hot season is approaching. Many volunteers tell us that this is the time of year when they often lay fully naked on the floor of their hut praying for the sun to go down each day. Coming from a very mild and moderate climate of the Pacific Northwest, I am a bit concerned. Ha!

In good news, training is near the end! We; as in 30 other Community Health Volunteers, have just about successfully completed 11 weeks of extensive training covering topics in various health approaches, technical information, cross-cultural lessons and language training. This coming week we will be having a large cultural day, sharing one final meal with our current host families. We will be cooking American style food, singing the American National Anthem, Zambian National Anthem, and performing many traditional Zambian songs and dances. After this we will be moved to a hotel in Lusaka where we will stay for several days before heading to our specific provinces. Within this time frame we will set up a Zambian bank account, buy the necessary items for our future homes and finalize loose ends before being dropped by a Peace Corps cruiser to our specific villages.

 Additional photos...

Relaxing a bit after long training days ;)

Presentation on water and sanitation

My Tonga language class. Ba Given 2nd in the row had his hands full with us ladies